David Koma RTW Spring 2023 – WWD

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The David Koma brand is growing – once only evening dresses could be found on its catwalks, but now there’s a plethora of items to choose from, including tailoring, knitwear, handbags and the shoes.

Koma took to the streets – literally and sartorially – staging his show outside Shoreditch in east London, a short walk from his design studio.

“I felt like this time it was really about the streets,” he said backstage, explaining that it was the right season to expand his collection after the huge success of his mark as the pandemic softened its blow.

It’s clear Koma’s confidence is growing – his shows are often smothered in the color black, but this time around he’s injected bright, bold shades such as cobalt blue and lilac, along with an inspired iridescent print. London pavements, where oil and water mix.

“It sparked my fantasy of the underwater world and sea creatures,” he said, citing American marine biologist Sylvia Earle and her documentary “Mission Blue” as his muse as inspiration.

“When she described what she had seen under the sea, it was surprisingly romantic,” he said.

It was easy to see the nautical influence on Koma—laser-etched seashell prints on little black dresses; starfish embroidery and buckled belts, which were too much on the nose, but for the Koma girl, it’s all about what’s on the surface.

It was smart of him to step away from what he knew best and dive into something soft and attainable that didn’t require too much headroom.

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