Marina Moscone Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Change is in the air at Marina Moscone. The designer makes me discover her spring collection when she brandishes a pale pink tunic with an assembly of pearly pearls on the chest. “For six years I would have called it a top. It’s a dress now,” Moscone says before laughing (for the record, it’s worn over pants in the lookbook). Moscone designs clothes that appeal to modest fashion plates with a shrewd eye, and while her hemlines are getting shorter and she’s introducing categories like shoes and homewares, her target audience hasn’t changed.

This season, she’s gone a bit more overtly extravagant than her traditional fare. Its references include the Belle Epoque era, Fortuny pleats and the work of sculptor Arch Connelly from the 1980s. Silhouettes are more fitted and some have long slits or short skirts. Dare I say they are sexy.

Textiles show Moscone’s attention to detail. Another pink midi dress is made with slightly uneven pleats, arranged against the grain. The actual silhouette is rather wearable, but the texture elevates it. Another key fabric is a water-resistant moire, which not only appears on Moscone’s signature twist cape, but also on a full-length puffer jacket filled with recycled down. A sheer white three-piece skirt, top and hot pants set is outstanding. Crafted in irregularly pleated silk organza hand-stamped with a pink flower, it has a delicately crinkled effect, almost like a nightgown.

This season, Moscone produces all the clothes that appear in the lookbook (except for the vintage brown fur coat from his personal collection). It’s a tight fit that will eventually be buyable. And while the clothes are special (see: labor-intensive organza), Moscone even approaches its second-hand outfits with a practical eye. “My goal is always to create clothes that can be open to that interpretation,” she says. “We have clients who read the collection in the evening, and others, like me, who see it during the day.” Something for everyone, except maybe the year 2000 enthusiasts.

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