The designer trio of Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Egry and José Lamali took inspiration from Jean-Michel Basquiat’s gritty New York City while delving into their own archives to create a mature, fused collection for the 10th anniversary of ‘Studies.
Not only does this year mark a decade for the label, but the trio are now also at the helm of the more staid brand Aigle. Both of these factors are in play here in smartly tailored trench coats and blazers, but paired with patchwork jeans, a velor tracksuit or a branded football shirt.
Basquiat’s frenetic sketches are here embroidered onto a houndstooth coat, white shirt or laser-etched into jeans, while nods to their own past collections were shown in reworked designs, such as the “Never-Mind” logo migrating from a graphic T-shirt to reinvent itself like the print of a large scarf.
The brand worked again this season with British bootmaker Solovair to create shoes with irregular dots. A puffer jacket and a head-to-toe jumpsuit with the pattern created one of the most memorable looks.
While the trio dedicated this collection as a “heartfelt tribute” to New York and cited the city as central to their brand identity, they presented the very French film “Twenty” during their Fashion Week presentation. male on Tuesday evening.
Director Grégoire Dyer’s short film featured a mix of pieces from the past and present, and juxtaposed the vibrant bright colors of the springtime French Alps with gloomy abandoned buildings in the suburbs of Paris. A trio of friends meet, play and party at the two locations, meant to evoke the friendship between the creators, who promise to meet again years later.
The presentation was accompanied by a live-mixed soundtrack by Pierre Rousseau, which rose to a crescendo as the film bounced between stories.
The film debuted simultaneously online, but there was something about bringing guests into the Gaité Lyrique’s three-screen theatre. The audience were surrounded by the mountains and the sweaty bodies of the gritty club for a few minutes, even though the IRL seats were socially distanced.